Tuesday, September 24

Trench coat: from the military to fashion industry


Three lethal industries involved in the trench coat: military, Hollywood and fashion.










The history of the trench coat was told by Contrado's blog author Claire from it's creation in 19 century till today.

"There are 2 clothiers who claim to have created the trench, and the arguments continue even to this day;


  1. Mayfair gentlemen’s clothier, John Emary
  2. Menswear business designer Thomas Burberry


John Emary

In 1853, John Emary developed and patented a fabric that was just as water-repellent as the original rubberised cotton, but was (thankfully) less smelly and more breathable. Emary renamed his company to what we now know as Aquascutum. This name comes from the Latin words “aqua” and “scutum” which translates to “water” and “shield.” This name directly refers to Emary’s focus on designing weather-proof clothing for the gentry. Emary claims to have created his version of the trench for officers serving in the Crimean War.

Thomas Burberry

Burberry founded his business in 1856. Yes this is the Burberry that is still rocking the fashion world today. in 1879, the young draper invented “gabardine.” This was a waterproof twill fabric that was also breathable. It was created by actually coating the individual yarns of cotton or wool. This was a big leap from the original fabric that was used to create the macs, where the entire piece of fabric was coated in one go. Burberry delivered plans for his new raincoat to the United Kingdom War Office in 1901, where it was accepted.


Both Emary and Burberry’s fabrics were very popular with all types of gentry; from sporty types and explorers to the upper class and aviators. It is clear to see why these fabrics became an essential for military uniform. It is still unclear who truly invented the trench. Both companies had connections to the British military establishment, and both Emary and Burberry had previously developed weatherproof clothing similar to the trench."

"During World War I however, the trench coats were issued only to British Officers and Warrant Officers 1st Class. It wasn’t available for soldiers of lower rank. This also helped to establish the trench as a coat of high standards and class."

Read the whole article of the history of the coat here.